Seafood Chowder

Chowder may be the most stereotypical dish on any restaurant menu in Nova Scotia, and that’s because everyone who likes seafood loves chowder. Here, competitions are held for chowder glory and everyone thinks their mother makes the best. This is my shot at perfect chowder — free of pomp and ceremony, but full of the best seafood in the province. The innovation is the pureed soup base, to which the seafood is added. For most chowders, I serve tea biscuits or good warm bread and garnish with some freshly ground black pepper.

Ingredients

2 lb (1 kg) mussels

1⁄4 cup (60 mL) butter

2 stalks celery, coarsely chopped

2 cloves garlic, halved

1 large onion, thinly sliced

1⁄2 fennel bulb (white parts only), thinly sliced

1⁄2 tsp (2 mL) salt

1⁄2 tsp (2 mL) pepper

2 cups (500 mL) white wine

6 cups (1.5 L) diced potatoes

3 bay leaves

3 cups (750 mL) whole milk

2 cups (500 mL) chicken stock

1 small 8 fl oz (250 mL) can baby clams, with juice

1 tsp (5 mL) thyme

1 tsp (5 mL) dillweed

1½ cups (375 mL) water

1½ cups (375 mL) heavy cream (35% mf)

2 lb (1 kg) haddock fillets, cut in 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces

2 lb (1 kg) scallops, large ones halved

1 lb (500 g) frozen North Atlantic cold-water shrimp

8 oz (250 g) cooked lobster meat, coarsely chopped

2 tbsp (30 mL) chopped parsley or fresh tarragon (optional)

Freshly ground black pepper, for garnish

Under cold running water, scrub and de-beard mussels, discarding any that are damaged or don’t close when lightly tapped. Set aside. In a large saucepan over medium heat, melt butter; sauté celery, garlic, onion, fennel, salt, and pepper until onion and fennel are translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in 1⁄2 cup (125 mL) of the wine; cook, scraping up brown bits from bottom and sides of the pan until wine has evaporated. Stir in potatoes, bay leaves, milk, chicken stock, clams and juice, thyme and dillweed; reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until potatoes are softened and falling apart. Remove and discard bay leaves. Remove from heat and set aside.

Meanwhile, in a large pot, bring remaining wine to a boil; add reserved mussels and let steam until opened about 5 minutes. With tongs and reserving cooking liquid, transfer mussels to plate and let cool enough to handle. Discarding any unopened mussels, pick meat from shells and transfer to a bowl. Set aside. Carefully pour cooking liquid into a large glass measure, leaving any sand or grit in the bottom of the pot; transfer to the second bowl and add reserved mussels. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. In batches in food processor, puree reserved celery mixture until blended and smooth, leaving lid vented but covering with a tea towel, and starting at very low speed for each batch, then increasing speed as it batch purees. Transfer into a clean pot; stir in heavy cream and bring to a simmer. Stir in haddock, scallops, shrimp, lobster and reserved cooking liquid; simmer until haddock flakes easily with a fork, about 20 minutes. Garnish with parsley and freshly ground black pepper.

Makes 6 to 8 entree servings

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Seafood Chowder